• 25290641517 8a53311698 b

    September 17, 2018

    How FLaK Combat Works


    FLaK combat is executed using either rattan or polypropylene (at opponent's consent) weapons. This simulates the weight and feel of a steel sword, without incurring the dangers of using a waster or live-steel, allowing FLaK combatants to fight intensely and realistically with greatly-reduced risk of injury.

    Weapon strikes are calibrated to penetrate or damage armor enough that the underlying "meat" has been injured or ruined. Thus, FLaK weapon strikes are quite forceful and akin to getting hit with a baseball bat. Understanding how to deliver as well as how to take a blow is crucial to the learning process. Students will pick these skills up during sparring practice or classes where strikes are delivered to armored areas.

    Fight Like a Knight follows a series of rules and customs that, while making the engagements slightly less realistic, keep combatants safe and prevent thuggishness. FLaK technique emphasizes the beauty, elegance, and grace inherent in swordfighting, and our rules and customs reinforce that as much as possible.


    • An individual combatant is responsible for declaring him/herself dead, thus losing the battle.
    • The recipient of the blow will determine if it landed with enough force to cut through the armor and kill/wound.
    • Any sufficiently forceful blow to the head, torso, or inner-thigh is a kill.
    • If a combatant’s arm is struck with an adequate blow, the combatant loses the use of the struck arm and must fight with a single weapon, tucking the injured arm behind his/her body.
    • If a combatant’s leg is struck with an adequate blow, the combatant loses the use of the struck leg and must fight from his/her knees - he/she can move around but can no longer stand.
    • If a combatant’s hip is struck with an adequate blow, the combatant loses the use of the entire lower half of his/her body and must kneel, sitting on his/her feet - he/she can not move at all from the waist down.
    • Blades of weapons cannot be grappled.



    In order to keep combatants safe and uninjured, FLaK members agree to abide by the following customs:

    • Arms, while inevitably getting hit on occasion, are never targeted - too much bone close to the surface that can easily be broken even through adequate armor.
    • Knees and below are also never targeted for the same reason as above.
    • The recipient of the blow has the final say in the quality and efficacy of the blow.
    • Shields will never touch your opponent’s body.
    • Basket-hilts/hafts will never touch your opponent’s body.
    • A fallen opponent is asked to yield rather than be attacked.
    • Slow-work and sparring will only go at the speed and intensity agreed upon by your partner.


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  • Bavinshield

    April 16, 2018

    DIY: Bavin

    In this DIY you will learn how to make a basin, or training weapon, from rattan and some tools/materials commonly found at your local hardware store.


    Historically, medieval fighters trained with weighted weapons, typically made of carved hardwoods, called "bavins."  Other terms, such as "bevins," "cudgels," and "wasters" are also common for these training weapons.  Needless to say, training with real weapons would have dramatically reduced the number of warriors an army could field, although, arguably, those who survived training would surely be the best of the best... or perhaps merely the luckiest.


    The following materials will be used in the construction of your bavin.  You may substitute if necessary, however, balance, durability, and overall efficacy of the weapon will most likely change if substitutions are made.

    • 1-3/8" or thicker rattan (30” to 38” long, depending on your height)
    • 1” to 2” wide strapping tape
    • Two colors of duct tape (I use black as a base color, and I like Gorilla Tape for that, but you can use any brand and any color that is different than the other)
    • Wood Rasp
    • 20” nylon cord
    • Lighter or matches
    • Marker (Sharpies work great)
    • OPTIONAL: Welded steel or molded plastic basket hilt
    • OPTIONAL: Two 2" stainless-steel hose-clamps (only needed with basket hilt)

    All of these items are readily available at a hardware store, except the rattan.  You can find that at a cane and basket making supply store such as Cane and Basket Supply in Los Angeles.  Rattan is important as it is both durable, weighty, flexes nicely, and has a nice, thick skin to keep it from fraying.

    You may substitute a hardwood pole for the rattan, but it will be much more prone to disintegration and breakage, and could become dangerous.


    Following these simple steps will ensure that you make a safe weapon which will last as long as possible while being in conformance with safety and usability standards of FLaK.

    1. Court the rattan (video) - Find the natural pull of the blade due to the inherent density of the rattan. Once you have found the way the rattan wants to lay, grip it as you would a sword, with the proximal knuckles of your hand aligned with the fore-blade and “V” formed between your thumb and index finger aligned with the back-blade. Mark (using a Sharpie or pencil) the fore-blade and back-blade with a line.
         Your browser does not support the video tag.
    2. Mark the hilt - While still holding the sword (as described in Step 1), mark around your hand (including the fingers) with a Sharpie or pencil. This will make a guide for where you will carve out the grip of your sword.
    3. Reinforce the blade - Starting at the tip of the blade, begin wrapping individual bands of strapping tape. Pull the tape as tight as you can, and allow it to overlap on itself a bit (an inch or so). There is no need to do more than a single wrap per band. Do this all the way down the blade, spacing the bands by approximately 1/2”, stopping about 2”-3” from the grip you drew in Step 2.
    4. OPTIONAL: Create a thrusting-tip:
      1. Stack enough 2” discs of closed-cell foam to make a tower 2.5" to 3.5" tall. You can glue them together, but it is not necessary, and it may make the tip more stiff.
        Thrusting-tip discs
      2. Now take two 24” to 30" long lengths of strapping tape, and fold it lengthwise over onto itself, making a strip of the tape that has no sticky side; effectively a strap, half the width of the tape.
        Thrusting-tip strap
      3. Next, you will use the two straps to affix the stack of discs to the end of the blade. The strap should extend down the sword (try not to run it directly along the blades), equally. You may want to compress the foam just a bit (less than 1/2”), and then throw a ring of strapping tape around the blade to hold the strap in place. Put the other strap on in the same manner, but at a 90-degree angle to the first strap (DO NOT COMPRESS THIS ONE).
        Thrusting-tip attached #1
      4. Once you have this done, wrap one ring of strapping tape around the foam, just tightly enough to hold them all together.
        Thrusting-tip strap #2
      5. Then, TIGHTLY, wrap a band or two of strapping tape and the joint of the foam and the rattan, half on the foam and half on the rattan, to reinforce the joint between the sword and the thrusting tip.
        Thrusting-tip reinforcement
    5. Define the blade - Lay a long line of your contrast-color duct tape along the length of both blades. If you have a thrusting-tip, do the same on it (just the very end - the flat face of the foam).
      The blade tip
      Defining the blade
      Defining the blade
    6. Fill in the sword - Now, with your second color duct tape, cover all of the remaining rattan and foam, leaving just the contrast-color as the blade and tip. The blade should be about 3/4” wide or so.
      Contrast tape on blade
      Contrast tape close-up
      Contrast tape tip
    7. Clean up ends - Use the same color tape to clean up the tip and hilt ends of the blade. This will not only make the sword look better, but it will also hold the other tape in place and keep it from fraying.
      Tip of the blade cleaned up
      Hilt-side of blade cleaned up
      Contrast tape in place
    8. Carve the hilt - Using a wood rasp (using forward strokes only, rather than ‘scrubbing’ is far more effective), begin taking material away from the area you marked out for the hilt. I like to carve grooves for the heel of my hand as well as my thumb and fingers. NOTE: the black on the hilt pictured is from use - as you do this the underlying rattan should be light-colored, but will darken as you use your bavin.
      Carving the hilt (palm side)
      Carving the hilt (finger notches)
      Carving the hilt (complete)
    9. OPTIONAL: Attach the basket hilt - Using hose clamps, attach the basket hilt, securing the clamps as tightly as you can without breaking them. Using the second color of duct tape (NOT the contrast color), cover both hose clamps.

    Now you have your very own, personalized bavin! This weapon can be used in FLaK classes as well as sparring sessions. Depending on how often it is used for sparring, it should last anywhere from 3 months to several years.

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  • Tristouroborous

    March 27, 2018

    A Question of Honor

    Recently a question was posed by a brother-knight about honor on the battlefield, and it got me thinking about what that meant in a broader scope. The question posed was, ”Do you feel that melee eats away from the courtesy and politeness that should be displayed when in harness?” Or, in more mundane terms, ”Does fighting group-combat allow one to compromise the integrity of his/her comportment?”

    Are honor and chivalry things you do outwardly and for the spectacle/attention/publicity of the act? Or is it an internal thing that governs one’s actions regardless of the stage? It is an interesting question, and a wide variety of viewpoints were expressed on the matter. Some were surprising, coming from fellow knights, some were to be expected coming from the person who expressed the opinion, and, yet others, aligned directly with my own moral philosophy.

    For me, and this is not at all meant to be prescriptive, honor and chivalry are a part of my being. They are not a thing that I am even capable of turning on or off, but rather a subconscious, governing force in every action I take. Now, that said, this is not to say that I am perfectly honorable or chivalrous, for we all falter, make poor decisions and succumb to passions or pressures in the heat of the moment. I fall down on this occasionally, and I know I do, sometimes aware in the moment, but usually in retrospect. This is what I have discovered in some of my investigations of my own behavior, especially where I have not lived up to the ideals I hold paramount.

    Since the original question is specific to the rarified form of combat that we engage in, I want to look at things through that lens, and let the reader make his or her own parallels to daily life. In essence, our engagements take three forms. First, there is single-combat, where two fighters engage each other for the glory of the fight and the entertainment of the spectators. Next we have melee-combat, where small groups of fighters will meet other, similarly-sized groups, as an exercise in teamwork and leadership, as well as preparation for war. Finally, there is war-fighting, where hundreds (and sometimes thousands) of combatants will meet on an enormous field of battle to experience the adrenaline-fueled rush of mass-combat, and to get a sense of how famous medieval conflicts must have felt, all for the glory of sovereign and kingdom.

    I realized, in dissecting these combat forms, that at the core, relative to the question, lies a factor of anonymity. If we were to rephrase the question as, ”Given some modicum of anonymity, does your honor and chivalry change?” then we get at the heart of the issue. For in single-combat, 1v1, there is a spotlight on the actions of each individual as the battle is fought, namely, those bearing witness to the battle, reinforcing the individual’s sense of right and wrong. This forces most of us to be on our best behavior, each combatant expected to comport hisself or herself with a requisite amount of honor and chivalry per the rules and expectations of engagement. It is in the revealing light of this scrutiny that one’s comportment is, typically, at its best.

    With melee combat (typically 3 or more to a side), the individual’s actions are subsumed into those of the group as a whole. There tends to be a bit more slack in both expectation and behavior, for the most part. This is not to say that everyone will take advantage of the modicum of anonymity for his or her own benefit, but that one may not feel as constrained by it as on the tournament field, where single-combat is found. It is far easier to get caught up in the outcome, and team-spirit, in order to win the engagement, compromising one’s honor and chivalry for an advantage or outright win.

    Finally, we have the field of war, where anonymity can range from negligible (intra-kingdom events, or in the case of a particularly high-profile fighter such as a king, queen, captain of a guard or order, or upcoming candidate for knighthood) to almost complete, as when a fighter ventures to distant and unknown kingdoms to support the war-effort. In my experience, it is under these circumstances that the comportment of the individual tends to deviate most from expectation or precedent. As an example, I have witnessed fighters whom I understood to be quite honorable and chivalrous engage in activities such as striking another combatant from behind, using far too much power in blows, ignoring multiple killing-blows, and all manner of known-rule breaking, just because “no one was looking.”

    Some may see these actions as part of the game, especially in war, where the honor of one’s group (war-unit, canton, barony, kingdom, etc.) is at stake, and relax their own ideals of comportment accordingly. I, personally, am not capable of that. My honor, my sense of chivalry, is constant, regardless of circumstance, with any deviation owing to my own fallibility and flaws, rather than a conscious effort to push the limits in order to win.

    For me, honor and chivalry are woven into the very fabric of my being, a part of my DNA if you will. While I could change them, with great effort, much like changing your hair color, they will always return to a state of constancy and an innate baseline, just as my dyed-hair will eventually grow out to its natural shade. The setting, circumstance, or lack of observers are not part of the equation, and therefore, have no influence on the result. I behave as I behave, always striving to be a better version of myself, regardless. I expect nothing less of myself, or my charges, be they children, squires or students.

    This is, of course, during our particular flavor of combat, where death is regulated, and life is but a resurrection point away, as we play a consensual game. Needless to say, none of this holds up under real life-or-death circumstances, where survival-at-any-cost governs all actions. But, barring that unthinkable possibility, I firmly believe that one’s life and actions should be governed by a well-defined, and resolute sense of both ideals.

    - In Honor and Chivalry

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  • Tristouroborous

    February 23, 2018

    The New Website is Here!

    After a long wait, the new website has finally been launched. The old WordPress site just was not cutting it, and I had been planning to create a whole new site, but between programming at work, and teaching web development, I just never found the time or the desire to sit in front of my own computer to do the work. Plus, making a decent site with quality user-experience is no easy task.

    Thankfully, a couple of former students offered to do the heavy lifting of the overall design and layout, and getting much of the structure in place. I am forever grateful to Davith Daravanh, Rylin Knox and Arnie Libunao, collectively known as The Artchitects, for their amazing work. What they did allowed me to go in a make some minor tweaks to an already excellent product, the result being what you see before you now.

    Please stay tuned, as new content, including video, images and blog posts, will be added regularly. And if you have any suggestions or find bugs, please feel free to reach out on the Contact page to let us know!

    - In Honor and Chivalry

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  • Whatsinabook

    October 3, 2014

    What's in a Book?

    I am often asked what makes Fight Like a Knight (FLaK) different from other organizations that teach swordfighting. My answer is always “authenticity.” If we disregard fencing (as it is well-documented has been studied for centuries and is a wholly different art-form) and focus solely on FLaK’s core curriculum of medieval-style combat using period weapons such as broadswords, longswords, axes and various polearms, the differences become quite apparent. FLaK training is based on the reality of a to-the-death swordfight between two similarly-armored combatants. The battles are full-speed, full-contact and unchoreographed engagements where a small set of rules exist solely for the safety of the modern-day fighters, much like where in a martial-arts sparring match, strikes to the eyes or throat are not allowed even though in a real encounter they would be among the primary targets.

    So what is this “authenticity?” Before we can get into that we need to look at a few things. Most modern-day swordfighting is taught from the few historical books that exist on the subject (the most widely used being the Talhoffer manuscripts – more on this in another post), which is, in and of itself, dubious. During the middle ages, the training and techniques used by an army or even an individual would have been highly guarded secrets. Imagine if Duke William II of Normandy ordered the publishing of a book on how the French-Norman army trained and the tactics it deployed on the battlefield. The English would have decimated them and the Battle of Hastings would not be as we know it today. So, we have to question WHO published these works. Surely not an actual active swordsman, knight, or military leader, for his very life would depend on any advantage he could gain, and his training methods would be at the fore. Thus, it seems far more likely that these earlier treatises were scribed by a witness, or someone who had a passing familiarity with actual combat.

    This brings us to the next point, which is that techniques described in these books in the context of two similarly armored and armed opponents, being some sort of leather and metal armor, a broadsword and a shield, are highly ineffective. I say this for two reasons, first and foremost of which is the fact that most of the techniques described and illustrated in the documents pertain to judicial engagements to settle some legal matter, where the combatants are unarmored and the fight is not mortal. These are very posed, choreographed, specific maneuvers that, in the course of a real swordfight, for which the opportunity would rarely present itself.

    The second, and more profound reason for the ineffectiveness of the techniques described in these book and taught by other swordfighting schools is simply that there is little to no attention placed on what it would take to kill your opponent. This is the core of FLaK’s teachings, and it starts with the simple philosophy that if you cease to throw killing blows, you have lost the fight, and are, for all intent and purpose, fertilizer for the lilies that will surely grow over your corpse. The kinesthetics required to consistently deliver lethal blows to an armored opponent are not addressed or taught, and for the most part, the instruction places the fighter in highly undesirable positions that would result in the almost immediate death when pitted against a skilled combatant.

    FLaK is authentic swordfighting at its core, cased in a minor set of rules for safety, where, ultimately, participants learn the skills that they would have required to survive day-to-day life in the middle-ages. For actors, these skills translate into powerful, dynamic and exciting physical performances that set them apart from their peers and cast-mates. Anyone training with FLaK will garner composure, balance, core-strength, kinesthetic-awareness, and the “I know how to handle myself” stride comes with being a seasoned swordfighter equipped with the tools take on the mightiest of foes.

    - In Honor and Chivalry.

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Latest News and Thoughts

  • Tristouroborous

    September 6, 2018

    FLaK Precedence

    The FLaK Precedence is similar to the Eastern martial arts’ belt system, existing to provide students with goals and a way to measure progress through the program. This document describes the various levels of achievement that can be attained through training with Fight Like a Knight, as well as their respective titles, which track an individuals standing within the clan.

    The timelines of the levels are fluid, in that the estimated time spent at each level may change depending on the dedication to practice, focus on technique and, ultimately, the skill of the warrior. The Hersir (Knight) will offer the examination when he/she feels the student is ready to progress.

    While it is the Hersir’s sole call on whether or not a fighter passes a test and advances to the next level. The tests are given in a group setting and require a consensus before the accolade is granted. This is a core element to the FLaK Precedence, allowing the community to weigh in on whether it accepts the candidate at the sought level or not, demonstrating to the candidate that his/her peers see him/her as ready to move forward as well as being a potential inspiration for those lower in stature. This mutual acceptance is paramount to our values, and each member knows that he/she has the full support of the FLaK community behind each of their accomplishments.

    Successfully completing the exam to become a Thrall will garner a leather cord from which the student’s chain will grow. At the Folc level, the student will be taught the technique to craft the rings into our Chain of Station. From that point forward, with each new exam that is successfully completed, a new title will be bestowed, as will the rings necessary for the candidate to craft his/her next section of chain. The Chain of Station will be complete upon successfully obtaining the title of Thegn.

    Passing a test should feel like an achievement, pushing oneself to master the level’s forms, technique, and weaponry. Not passing a test should never be construed as a failure, but rather an opportunity to discover areas that need refinement. If the candidate does not pass a test, he/she should accept feedback from the Knight and his/her peers with the same humility and respect with which it was delivered, rising to the challenge of growth, seeking to improve the identified areas, rather than seeing a fault or failure. For we are stronger together than any individual is alone.




    (martial arts equivalent)




    (white belt)



    Sword and Shield

    Leather Cord
    (yellow belt)

    • Rattan or Polypropylene sword
    • Shield

    clan member


    Copper Chain
    (green belt)

    • Kidney belt
    • Cuisses+Knees
    • Rattan greatsword


    Single Sword

    Bronze Chain
    (purple belt)

    • Spaulders or Pauldrons
    • Vambraces+Elbows
    • Rattan polearm

    young warrior

    Advanced Weapon and Shield

    Silver Chain
    (blue belt)

    • Gauntlets
    • Body armor
    • Secondary weapon


    Advanced Great Weapon

    Gold Chain
    (brown belt)

    • Gorget
    • Helm
    • Other single-handed weapon

    mature warrior

    Dual Weapon

    Platinum Chain
    (red belt)

    • Demi-gauntlets


    Weapon and Shield Master

    Full chain with medallion:


    (black belt)
    • Design armor around time-period/culture/fighting-style


    Great Weapon Master

    Full chain with medallion:


    (black belt)
    • Design armor around time-period/culture/fighting-style


    Dual Weapon Master

    Full chain with medallion:


    (black belt)
    • Design armor around time-period/culture/fighting-style

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  • Gladiatora longsword

    April 10, 2018

    The Squire's Progress

    The Squire’s Progress is our first form, covering basic footwork, sword blows, feints, positioning and mechanics. This is a fight, with an aggressor and a defender, and should be practiced with a partner whenever possible.

    Once the basic moves are learned, the student should focus on forceful, isometrically-controlled blows, while emphasizing proper body mechanics.

    As partners become more fluent with the progress, blows may be thrown at any point in order to keep the aggressor engaged and not just a robotic killing machine.

    STEP AGGRESSOR DEFENDER 1 Salute Salute 2 En garde 1 En garde 1 3 Flat-snap (#1) Block 4 Step into the offside (#4) Retreat, block 5 Block the shot, step into moulinet Flat-snap, retreat, garage door 6 Retreat (teardrop return), retreat (into en garde 1) Advance, advance 7 Feint, advance flat-snap (#1) Retreat, block 8 Two steps to the wrap (#30) Wrap-block 9 Retreat, retreat (sword stays) Advance, advance 10 Reset (big Tai Chi move to en garde 2) Hold (optional offside) 11 Step in to #6 (goofy-footed) Retreat, block 12 Quintain (block-blow-block) Quintain (blow-block-blow) 13 Step in (sword goes up) Retreat 14 Step in (sword crosses over head) Retreat 15 Step out (horse-stance, sell the leg shot) Block leg shot (leaving opening) 16 Slot shot Allow aggressor to land blow 17 Onslaught begins (teardrop return to flat-snap) Block 18 Offside (#4) Sword-block 19 Wrap (stepping in to en garde stance) Wrap-block 20 Belly slash Sweeping sword-block 21 Flat-snap (#1) Block 22 Offside (#4) Sword-block 23 Big conversion Block flat-snap (allowing blow to land) 24 Full retreat, retreat, retreat Advance, advance, advance 25 Reset (en garde 2) Should be out of range

    [ Read more ... ]

  • Tristouroborous

    March 9, 2018

    A FLaK Definition of Honor and Chivalry

    I think honor and chivalry are wonderful words, conjuring all manner of imagery of knights and kings, lords and ladies in waiting, towers and tresses, swords and sorcery. But what do these words actually mean? According to the illustrious Daniel Webster,

    honor / ä’-nər /
    a keen sense of ethical conduct; integrity


    chivalry / shi’-vəl-rē /
    the sum of the ideal qualifications of a knight, including courtesy, generosity, valor, and dexterity in arms.

    While I appreciate these formal definitions, they have never seemed practical to me as a philosophy or a guide to my own comportment. Over the years, I have managed to come to a set of definitions that fills this need, and sits well with me on a visceral level. I offer these up for review, but, should they not speak to you on a similar level, I encourage you to formulate your own, meaningful and functional definition to help guide you on your journey.

    In FLaK terms, honor is the way you treat yourself. Your personal integrity, and the respect you give to yourself by living up to your own personal standard, holding yourself to a higher ideal, and always striving to be a little better than before. It is keeping your word, and not giving it if you believe you cannot. It is always doing the right thing, even if that means less for you. It is consistent kindness and compassion to all, regardless of differences in race, culture, or creed.

    Chivalry is the way you treat others. Your comportment or outward behavior, and the respect you give those around you, often by adhering to your honor regardless of setting or circumstance. It is empathy and understanding of the human condition, and recognizing that we are all experiencing the same pains, fears and difficulties. And then, being willing to help one's fellow human on their journey.

    In essence, honor and chivalry come together in my mind as the idealized Arthurian knight. Lancelot, Galahad, Arthur himself, steadfast in one's adherence to the code, always seeking to do better at each turn, and that is what we should all strive for in our daily lives.

    - In Honor and Chivalry

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  • Tristouroborous

    October 23, 2014

    Squires and Swordmaidens at Colfax!

    I just got word that Squires and Swordmaidens will be offered at Colfax Charter Elementary School as an after-school program!

    FLaK cannot possibly express enough gratitude to Maura Simon, a 4th grade teacher whose Friday Brain-Breaks take students out of the classroom to do something physical in an effort to break up students day, allow them to move their bodies, and work on skills that do not require a pencil and paper. Ms. Simon asked us to do a 5-week session during these Brain Break periods as something completely different for the kids. 36 students from her class have been learning about honor, chivalry, heraldry, medieval court, and SWORDFIGHTING, and the response has been so overwhelmingly positive that principal approved us for CASE (Colfax After School Enrichment).

    We will be offering a 10-student class beginning in January, so keep your eyes out if you have little ones at Colfax!

    [ Read more ... ]

  • Whyflak

    July 29, 2014

    Why FLaK?

    If you're tired of going to the gym, doing aerobics in front of the TV, or of the same old excuses for not working out, and want to try something so totally unique that you might actually look forward to exercising, then Fight Like a Knight is for you!

    Fight Like a Knight classes are unlike anything you've done before. In each one-hour, low-impact, high-intensity class you will learn real medieval weapons-techniques stemming from 9th to 12th century combat styles cultivated through actual training and decades of research. These secrets were closely guarded by the knights of old and their trainers, but have been handed down through generations and are now made available to you!

    Great for actors, stunt professionals, re-enactors and medieval enthusiasts alike, and for ages 5 to 80, Fight Like a Knight is a blend of aerobic and isometric exercises embedded in a rigorous training regimen designed to give you solid, functional skills with a variety of period weapons, including:

    • Sword and Shield
    • Longswords/Broadswords
    • Great Swords (2-handed sword)
    • Daggers
    • Axes
    • Maces
    • Spears
    • Polearms (Glaive, Halberd, Great Axe, Ear-Spoon, etc.)

    [ Read more ... ]